YAMAHA MOTORCYCLE DSC 11

This is the result of 75 or 80 hours of model building. I'm quite satisfied with the end product. I just couldn't bring myself to glue the wheels solidly in place, so I made a few modifications to allow the wheels to turn and the steering to operate.

FRONT WHEEL:

I could't convince myself of the exact intended method of attching the spokes to the rim. Here, I rolled new hubs, (to replace parts K-1, K-2 and K-5) from strips of cardstock, around a 1/8" dowel. Roll 1/8 paper tube for axles. For this wheel I matched up the spokes and attched them to the center of the rim. Spokes have to be shorten a bit! The axle was then mounted to the forks after notching out parts B-29 and B-30.

BACK WHEEL:

Here I made new hubs for parts L-11 and L-12 but parts L-3, L-19 and L-21 are not glued to the rest of the assembly. Make holes in the center of all parts to accept the axle and leave the wheel free to turn on the axle.

STEERING:

I just made a new cylinder to wrap around part B-27 and then glued that to part C-2, leaving it free to swing back and forth.

REAR ARM:

I had some trouble with this. Not sure if it was me or the parts, but in order to get this to fit together, I had to open up the angle between parts G-23/G-24 and G-26/G-27.

FRAME:

Parts C-16 and C-20 have the color coded index marks reversed.

Make all the tube sections first and let them dry completely, after checking that they are perfectly round. Forming the tubes around a rod or dowel of just the right size helps with this. While assembling, try not to get more than two fresh joints on the piece you are working on. The top and bottom sections of the frame should lie on a flat surface, so I found it best to build them that way. Start with the back two pieces of the right side and glue them together, then the same for the left side. The left and right sides should always be a mirror image of each other, so while the glue is still tacky, small adjustments can be made to get them as symetrical as possible. Now, let these parts dry completely and do the same with the front pieces. While these are drying, do the same with the bottom pieces, two at a time and checking that the sides are symetrical. When the top pieces are dry, glue them together and instal the cross pieces. The whole top assembly should lie flat on the table so, make sure it does, check for symetry again and let it dry. Use the same proceedure for the bottom section. Let dry. Now we put the whole thing together by installing the rear curved sections, but don't glue these just yet, and glueing the front folded part to the frame tubes. When dry, glue the curved rear sections with a final adjustment to make sure everything is nice and "square".

Assembling the rear arm to the frame was made easier by leaving parts attached to G-1, unglued until now.

THE FINAL TOUCH.....Retractable Kickstand

1. Shortened the original kickstand and attached short tube(pic1), to match angle of the frame as in (pic4) 2. A second tight-fitting tube was rolled around that one and glued to the frame part C-26.(pic2). Extended position (pic3). Retracted position.(pic4)

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